Pressure Testing

The question - Rick, I've read your posts (as well as those from High-Output Backcountry, Trax310, etc.) for a while now. It has been a real learning experience! I ride a Banshee. I ride mostly at Glamis and I like to go fast! I like duning, however the first time I won a race up Olds I was hooked on racing the hills! I knew (know) very little about motors and hi-performance, I do know that I wanted to go faster. I took my Banshee to a local shop where I lived and asked the guy to make my quad faster. He ordered the Stage IV kit from Trinity, sent the crank to get trued and welded, and did some porting. To make a long story shorter, the results were not good. The machine was extremely peaky. When the power came on, I could not keep the front end on the ground, but it just wouldn't run the way I had hoped. It was pretty frustrating. (Not to mention expensive!)   I finally brought my Banshee to Trinity last February and Harry had redid the porting and set it up the way it is now. I guess he had to make some "corrections" on the other guy's attempt at porting. Now my Banshee is really fast! I recently added a 6 inch extended Lonestar swingarm ('cause I still had a problem keeping the front end down) and Ohlins, front and rear. I win 95% my races against gas Banshees (and with all due respect) 99% of my races with TRX's. (I am sure yours is faster!)   A few of the guy's I've met and ride with at Glamis have built their Banshees and they were always talking about their modifications. Degree wheels, squish clearance, high compression (200 PSI). I really didn't quite understand what they were talking about! (Reading the posts here, I am beginning to!)They've bored and stroked their Banshees, and while their quads are fast, I always win the races. My Banshee is a '97 with Trinity Stage IV manifold (35 PWK carb ), Stage IV porting (I don't know what the measurements are, and if Harry had told me I would not have known what he was talking about), timing advanced 4 degrees, Cool Head with 17 cc domes, Toomey T5 pipes.   On the Dyno at Trinity it put out 74 horsepower at the top ( I don't remember at what rpm, when I go back to Trinity, I'll get another print-out.) Harry overlaid some other dyno runs on mine and tried to explain to me what was happening. I do remember that while some of the big bore (370, 410 and 440, I think) strokers did not have much higher horsepower at the top, they had up to 15 horsepower more than my Banshee at different levels on the dyno run.   Anyway, my point was I didn't understand why my Banshee, 350 cc with 170 PSI compression was faster than their 200 PSI, bigger bore, stroked machines. After reading about everything you guys are writing, it is obvious that there is some very technical stuff going on when it comes to properly modifying motors. If it isn't done right, it doesn't work right. I still don't understand port timing, squish width, degrees and angles, but I know more than I did before! I really appreciate you guys sharing your knowledge.   I have a couple of questions, specifically about tire pressure. I know there was a thread here that mentioned the effect of tire pressure. Before my last trip to Glamis (Thanksgiving), I put on new tires on my Banshee. They were competition buffed (very light!), tall and narrow haulers. Since I've put those new tires on there has been quite a flat spot off the bottom. I can get good launches, but I have to really feather the clutch to avoid bogging. I am running stock gearing. My question has to do with this. Should I change to a different counter sprocket or should I try different tire pressure? Both? Also, in regard to tire pressure, it was my impression that lowering tire pressure would INCREASE traction. However, someone told me that on some paddle tires, particularly lightweight tires, that lowering tire pressure would DECREASE traction due to the angle of the paddles as they spun around. Apparently, increasing the air pressure would make the paddles stiffer, therefore changing the angle that they bit into the sand and giving more traction. When I bought these tires I was told to run them at about 6-7 PSI. (I used to run about 3 PSI on my old tires). What would you suggest?   I go to Glamis quite often. All of the holidays and usually about 2 off-weekends per month. I race the hills a lot. I have probably raced you some time. You were probably one of the very few "R's" that beat me! I am going to Glamis for New Years, are you going out? If so, it would be cool to hook up at the hills! Thanks for all of the interesting and informative reading!

The response - There are a couple of things I always say I'll try to do next year. One of them is to make it to Glamis for more than a few weeks a year. The other is to convert my TRX into a single purpose machine - make it a hill shooter. Maybe in 1999.   Even stock Banshee's with paddle tires will make their front ends VERY light. Add to that some porting - pipes etc. and you may have a light-switch of a beast which would be difficult to ride. It's interesting to me that Harry would use Toomy T-5 pipes on one of Trinity's motors. If Harry got inside it he might have been able to "save" what the other guy did - or perhaps actually cut in some performance as opposed to running a grinder across the surfaces of the ports and make it look as though it were highly modified. Seventy-four HP peak is a VERY good number on your quad. You should be proud of it. You should be very competitive with that much HP especially if you can ride the thing too - and it sounds like you can.   When my TRX motor started making some good HP I started to have trouble with paddle tires. I knew there was something wrong but I couldn't put my finger on it. I attached a piece of masking tape across the junction of the bead of the tire and the wheel. After a hard launch the tape was broken. I was spinning the wheels inside the tires. Switching from 8" diameter wheels to 10" solved the problem because it increased the amount of tire/wheel contact. I always index the tires. That is - be sure that a paddle from one tire is exactly lined up with a paddle on the other. This makes them both grab at the same moment. Marking the inner beads/wheels with white grease pencil will give indication of a wheel spinning inside a wheel. With the same amount of air in both tires - measure their circumference - it should be the same. If it is not, return the tires for ones that are. If they are not the same then you will be giving away traction because you can not dial them in properly. I always adjust tire pressure before changing the gear ratio.   It has been my experience that increasing the pressure of the air in the tires decreases the traction, allowing more slip. When you take air out of the tires you increase the tire's floatation - you can watch this happen as the side wall slightly flexes. Reducing the air from 6 PSI to 3 will be a HUGE difference. Try making adjustments to the tire pressure in 1/4 to 1/2 pound increments. Get a really good tire gauge if you don't have one already. It is very helpful to have a tire gauge that reads out to 1/10 of a pound of air for precision. The one I use also reads out in kilopascals making it very easy to find a good setting.   Since it's always easier to start with more air and let it out, go to the hill or where ever you are testing with hard tires (6 to 7 PSI), a friend with a stop watch, a thermometer, a piece of paper and a pencil. Also bring an air pump in case you let out too much. Make some tests with different pressures. Listen to your motor and feel the hookup. Write down what pressure you are at, what the temperature is outside, what happened during your run, what the time was, how you felt about it and any thing else that mattered during that run. You should be able to notice changes right away and immediately "dial-out" some pressures which are far too extreme - in either direction.   Sometimes what "feels" fast is not. Many times I have been surprised by a setting which "seemed" fast, but was slower. It seems that the best setting is one which will just allow a launch without bog - at the lowest RPM possible. This allows the launch gear to be fully revved out AND a powerful grab out of the hole. There are many theories about this - I have had good luck using several different approaches - but usually the best one is what works. Experimenting with YOUR setup will let you find your ideal launch.   By launching at the same RPM each time you should be able to dial in a good launch at a specific amount of air in the tires. Changes in the launch RPM will demand more testing with air pressures. It is probably best to try to always launch at the same RPM and adjust tire pressure to it rather than the other way around. After setting up your quads air pressure to a particular hill or race area don't expect it to be perfect for any place else but there - at THAT time. If you're serious enough about winning races you'll be adjusting the air in the tires several times a day - so you don't miss out on any of the traction or motor that you have. Your tire pressure will change as the air temperature outside changes much the same as carburetor jetting. Just as small changes to jetting can make a big difference, many times a small change in tire air pressure can do the same. To have a perfect launch - without a bog or over rev - and hitting the gears and power band just right is a sweet thing. It can be duplicated, reproduced and explained.   I usually think of a hill race as having 4 different parts to it. The launch, the woops, the drive up the hill and the finish. Dialing in for any one of these areas changes the way the others behave. There is (almost) always a compromise in one area (if lucky enough). So much of hill and flat sand drag racing has to do with the "woops" at the bottom of the hill or at the starting area. This is the most important area of the run other than the launch. Dialing in the tire air pressure is only going to make nasty suspension problems get worse if the shocks and their settings are not up to the task at hand. High quality shocks with compression and rebound adjustment will help to dial out many problems that are associated with the bumps. You'll go the fastest through the rough stuff when the tires are in contact with the ground for the longest amount of time.   The drive up the hill will be enhanced if the speed coming out of the woops is high and traction is there when shifting into a higher gear - the tires have to be on the ground. When the tires are in the air they're not accelerating. It is here that careful listening/feeling the engines power will become most important because over revving the engine here - or while shifting - will destroy the drive. It may be more desirable to slightly under rev the motor rather than over rev since the power will be ahead of the gear rather than behind it. The finish is when the motor has achieved the desired RPM in the gear of choice. If the RPM is too low or too high - too much of a compromise has been made.   Rick       Thanks Rick. I printed the suggestions you made, and when I go to Glamis this week I'll spend one day just experimenting. Where can I get one of those good tire gauges you mentioned?   Harry didn't use the Toomeys. The first thing I did when I bought my Banshee was put on the Toomeys and change the filter setup. It was a great improvement, but I wanted to go faster! (Got tired of getting smoked at the hills!) I went to a local shop to have the work (porting, etc.) done. The results were not what I was hoping for so I took the Banshee to Trinity and started all over. It was an expensive lesson, considering all the money I spent at the first shop for porting. Besides being fun, it must be really nice on the wallet to be able to do your OWN work! I respect and envy your knowledge and skill.   I still want to go faster! It's addictive. I know I'll always want to go faster. For me, there's nothing like winning! I have considered giving up the sport for something less addictive and less expensive, like smoking crack! Just kidding of course! I like long dune rides; however I always seem to head to Olds in the daytime or Comp at night. You had mentioned turning your TRX into a hill shooter. I guess that is the ultimate. I had asked Harry about going in that direction, he said that when he does big bore, high-performance mods he likes to start out with a stock motor. I guess the porting I have now makes it harder to do what he needs to do to the motor. Not to mention the price tag for all that work.   Your description of the 4 different parts of a hill race hit it right on the money! I'm sure reading your message will help make me a little faster! You have a very analytical mind. Are you an engineer?   JS       Don't forget Gecko road for flat sand racing after things calm down at Olds and before the action starts at Comp. Usually the action starts 1 - 2 hours before sundown and is pretty much done just after sundown. I also like to go on long dune rides. Sometimes riding to Mexico or Buttercup. When I do it I'll usually gear for it (14 or 15/36) to get some range and often times change back to the stock size carburetor for an additional safety margin. I hate to run out of gas!   I'm in a pretty good position to convert a bike/motor into a hill shooter since I have 2 engines to work with. The thing is I really need another frame to do it because I want my cake and I want to eat it too. I have just about another complete bike in parts.   The gauge I have goes from 0 to 5 PSI and is marked off in 1/10 of a lb. increments. Additionally it reads from 0 - 34 kilopascals. I made it using a Marshall/Town gauge. I connected it to a small length of spiral Teflon tubing and ended it with a standard air chuck. It's a little big and clunky - but as accurate as they come. The "M" gauges were not accurate enough for my purposes.   If you feel the need - adding Nitrous Oxide will provide a great bang for the buck. It's safe, effective and powerful. Dialing in the right jets could easily add 14 - 18 HP (peak) to what you already have. I used to have it but got rid of it because whenever someone saw the blue tank they wouldn't race me. Even if I wasn't using it, if I won, they assumed I was. That bothered me.   No engine builder has ever had a porting tool inside a barrel of mine. They have never milled, decked, cut, CCed, checked or pressure tested any 2 stroke I've owned. When I race - it is ME that shows up. I never worry about winning or losing. I just do what I'm going to do and if I happen to get to the top first - I consider it a bonus. Getting to the top first doesn't mean I had a good run - and not being first doesn't mean my run was not successful. When I race I'm only thinking about MY run. I don't care what the guy next to me has or what his bike or displacement is. It doesn't matter. I'd race anyone - just for the "race" in it. The only time I'm concerned about another rider is if the driver is too close or drives in a manner which is reckless. We've all seen racers "push" others out of the way in order to win. Though it's not really a legitimate win if one driver had to back out of it because his "space" was invaded. How about those guys that come to the line "on a roll." We all know that a rolling start is a HUGE advantage. Even 1 mph here is major. Rick   I know what you mean about the guys who do the "rolling starts". Whenever I race one of those guys, if I don't smoke him anyway, the next time I race I'll just stop and take my throttle hand off the handlebars until he's stopped.   While we are talking about hill racing pet peeves, what about the guys who want to line up almost ON the whoops instead of back at the usual launch area at the bottom of the hill? I know they are just afraid of hitting the whoops at speed I consider my ability to go fast over the whoops a big advantage anytime I race.   That brings up another question. Is there a solution that you know of to the poor shifting on Banshees? Sometimes I lose ground in a race trying to shift into 4th or 5th. Especially when I've been racing for awhile (maybe because its hot?), I really have to bang the shifter hard to get into 4th and 5th gear. Once in the gear it pulls hard and I usually win anyway, but I wish I had a solution to this problem. I know I'm losing a split second banging it into the next gear. Sometimes when it gets really hot I can't hit 5th no matter how hard I pull on the shifter and I just have to stay in 4th. See ya,   JS     Those guys that want to start ON the woops instead of behind them are giving us guys (with more power and better suspensions) an even greater advantage, but they don't know it - or understand it that way. For us it's one less area to have to worry about - we'll get our power to the ground sooner, for them it kills any chance of getting a drive up the hill.   Trinity Racing sells a modified shift star. They'll modify yours or you can buy a new one from them. It helps a lot. In addition to that - get the Hinson clutch basket and install it. It greatly helps to release the gear you want to get out of. You have to pull the clutch side cover to install/replace it. You can tell if your clutch basket is worn by checking a few things. When you start up your bike, can you immediately put it in gear without the bike learching forward and/or stalling? If it clunks into gear - the basket is worn. Put the bikes rear tires in the air. Pull in the clutch and put it in gear (don't let out the clutch), do the rear tires spin? If they do the basket is worn. When changing clutches - be sure to use the Barnett Kevlar for additional life, hookup and a softer pull on the clutch lever.   Under normal riding conditions I never use the clutch for upshifting or downshifting - except for starting from a stop. Racing however puts an additional load on the clutch and gears requiring either a back-off-of-the-throttle and a clutchless shift, a chutched shift, or a speed-shift. Of these three I favor a back off of the throttle - though it's not the fastest. It does make the gear change a sure thing though, and fewer missed gears result from it. My favorite way to shift is under full throttle, without using the clutch with the help of an electric power shifter. This simple device shaves time between shifts by allowing full throttle/full power shifting without very much effort.   The way it works is simple. Drag racers discovered some time ago that if they momentarily "kill" the motor instead of clutching it for shifting that the next gear could be engaged more quickly - and the power would still be applied to the wheels and they would not have to let off the gas at all. The electric shifter comes with a switch to wire to the gear shift lever, a small box with a delay control and a small 12v battery to supply power.   To dial in the setup you need only to set the shifter switch to kill the motor exactly when you pull up on the shift lever (when it is ready to change - not just touching it with your toe). Then adjust the delay on the timing box to allow enough of a "kill" time for the gear change to happen.   It takes about 1/2 hour to set it up. Once completed it will turn your 6 speed into a fully automatic - full throttle power ride. No need to let off the gas to shift, no need to clutch for gear changes. No need to do anything except keep your toe close to the gear change lever and know when you going to change into the next gear. It is not uncommon to shave 1 to 2 seconds off the time it takes to get to the top of Olds. This depends on how many shifts you're using - but you get the idea. In addition to the obvious benefit outlined above, it is easier on the clutch and drive train since power is always supplied to it.   Rick       Good stuff. Question: On any of my 3 Blasters, Once I start it in neural, I pull the clutch in and press down to first, I get that clunk sound and the quad moves forwarded just a little for a sec. This happens on the '92 (low hours) and on my '89 (high hours, original 89 clutch). The clutches are adjusted according to specs. and the clutch baskets don't show any wear. What's going on? They have done this since day one. I think it's normal, but not sure if I am missing something.   You Wrote: "My favorite way to shift is under full throttle, without using the clutch with the help of an electric power shifter. This simple device shaves time between shifts by allowing full throttle/full power shifting without very much effort."   I want one! What's it called. Where can I order one? What's it run? Thanks   YFS200       I used to think that kind of thing was normal too. When fully warmed up the motors don't usually behave that way and will allow you to select first gear without a "surprise." The oil is warm and has expanded. Beside the fact that while sitting idle - in a garage waiting to be ridden - the clutch plates stick to each other since they are very flat and have the transmission oil between them to promote fluid adhesion - kind of like putting two pieces of glass together with a small amount of oil between them. Do this, then try to pull them strait apart. It is almost impossible, you'll have to slide them apart. That is fluid adhesion.   I used to deal with this two different ways. First I would start the bike warm it up (somewhat) and put the rear in the air. Select first gear - the tires will spin but should release after several squeezes of the clutch lever. The other way is to raise the rear of the quad, leave the motor off, put it in gear, pull in the clutch and rotate the tires by hand until the clutch plates become free. It only takes a minute. I have to say that when I switched to the Barnett Kevlar clutches and Hinson clutch basket this phenomenon went away. I can start up my bike and immediately switch it into gear without so much as a twitch. Though I'm not the kind of guy to do this I always warm up my motor for a few minutes before a ride.   The electric shifter is made by Dale Walker. Dale Walker's HP (Holeshot Performance) Products. 320 Babe Thompson Road La Selva CA 95076 408-761-2808 or 408-761-2826 http://www.holeshot.com/   The area code may have changed. Be sure to specify that you are using it on a 2 stroke motor and you need it to operate with a negative grounding system. Expect to pay about $300 for the complete setup which includes a handlebar toggle switch - to turn it on/off, the kill module delay box, the shifter switch trigger, battery (very small 12v sealed wet cell - also available at electronic stores like Fry's) and battery charger - I think it's called a Sure Charge.   Everything installs easily though you may have to fabricate a mounting bracket for the shifter switch since every bike is different. I made one in about 10 minutes out of 1/8" thick by 1" wide aluminum stock. Be sure to solder all the electrical connections and heat shrink them when done to keep the water out. If you do it right you can install the whole unit so you can remove it without any permanent modifications to the wiring system.   Rick       Thanks for the help. I have noticed that the clunk gets less once everything is warmed up, but is still there. I always thought that it had something to do with the tranny having less drag in neural then needed to brake apart the clutch plates. I will try that clutch when I replace the stock one. Thanks   I found Hole Shot's web site with the power shift listed. Looks sort of simple for $300. The idea is easy. I think I can build a better one for less (or with my luck, more) that can run off a 9 volt battery for a week, (or make a battery less version) that's better. Maybe having an auto engage feature where it only power shifts if the RPM is above a set point. Say 7,000RPM. Then it will be there when I need it and off for cruising. Lots of ideas. Thanks for the info.   YFS200       You might be on to something there, but it's also fun to drive the thing around at low revs without letting of the gas. As it is the 12v version runs quite a while without a recharge - at least a couple days of riding - and it charges up in about 4 hours. The battery itself is about 2"x2"x4" long - it's pretty small. You could use a rectifier but they tend to produce voltage spikes which are not very welcome. I've seem nitrous users try powering the solenoid system with them without much success. Though those solenoids draw much more power.   Rick       Hey guys, been reading your thread here, and a damn fine one too.... not trying to stroke egos, but very informative and relevant info for all of us that seek to get to the top of the hill first.   I've had the experience of switching to the Cascade Billet shifter on a Banshee. My Honda's shifter(stock) seemed very positive compared to a stock Banshee shifter. When I hop on a friends ride it takes me a pass or two before I get comfy with a Banshee shifter. Well.... I broke one once, and if I break it I fix it... and all that they had was a Cascade shifter, and it makes a difference, on Banshee's don't know about Honda's(but have eyeballed the Denton linkage shifter once or twice-any experience??). The shifts seemed much more positive, not spongy..... The shift star mod is actually pretty simple to do, a friend had a local shop do it and I traced it onto paper, and have mod'd several since. All that was done to his was rounding the points of the star about to a .250 Radius on each point.   I've also found, and this is with the Mk 1 seat-o-matic dyno, that shifts seem more positive and clutch uptake is smoother, by running synthetic oil. Yep it's $5 a quart, and I change it after every weekends ride, but it's my opinion that synth. is better. While we're talking gear oil, ever run 10W-30 oil in your tranny? Don't. 30 weight oil and 75W-90 gear oil have the same viscosity, just measured at different temps. I've read several places, the most recent at Red Line oil's Home page, that the polymer strands in gear oil actually get cut up by the meshing gears. The extreme pressure additives(EP) in gear oil provide the necessary lubrication under those conditions, and motor oil doesn't. Haven't heard of anyone having problems that I know of(do know one knothead who runs it), but the cost of tranny parts and case halves........   Rick, tell me more about running Amsoil mix oil???? I noticed that you run it at 80:1, what have been your wear characteristics with it??? Ever thought about blending nitromethane??? Lasts longer than nitrous, with decent performance gains........and less hassle than methanol.....   Backcountry     This has been a good thread. I always get a little carried away with my ego especially about building engines for myself and friends - what to say... sorry if I come across a bit STRONG WINDED.   The Banshee shifter is VERY weak. Part of this is because it is so long. Banshees have a vague feel to their shifter and like you it takes me time to get used to them. I have welded many of them with reinforcements added to make them stiffer. I too have had experience with the Cascade shifter on a Banshee and it is a VAST improvement over stock. The shift star modification is easy to do, but try not to lose the small hardened pins that are part of the assembly. They're easy to lose if you're not careful.   I looked (and bought) a Denton shifter a few years ago. I found it was very nice but stuck out way too far for my size 12 boots so I returned it. I (basically) copied the design though improved it a lot and the result is on my bike right now. The shifter is perfect. It is adjustable for height, throw and tension. I did not give it an adjustment for distance since I dialed it in for MY foot (toe). I consider it one of the best improvements I made to the bike. From it I connect a Dale Walker electric power shifter.   Like you, I too change my tranny oil VERY frequently. Every ride weekend and often times once during the week while at Glamis. It depends on what kind of riding I've done though during that week. I don't always race all day long. Sometimes I just cruise around taking it all in. The oil I use in the tranny is 10w40 Amsoil (synthetic) in the fall (cooler months) and 20W50 Amsoil in the summer. My premix has always been lean (80:1) compared to what a lot of other people run.   I used to run air cooled Odysseys (250 & 350 cc) and ran their oil to gas mixture at 100:1 using Amsoil. Eight ounces of oil to 6 gallons of gas. As far as I know I never suffered an oil related breakdown, though I did hole a piston or two due to improper main jetting. Internally everything was always fine. There was never a lack of oil in the motor. We ran the heck out of them. Everything was always fine. There was never a lack of oil in the motor.   When I got my TRX in 1986 I chose 80:1 a nice round number - since it was 8 ounces to 5 gallons it mixed in well - where the heck are those 6 gallon cans anyway? I jetted for it and received the benefit of less gunk in/on my motor, fewer oil foiled plugs, easier to read plugs and improved performance since the less oil going through the motor the better off everything is. I understand the Karting guys mix their Amsoil at ratios as high as 150:1 and even higher. I've run this way for 12 years. I finally wore out my first TRX crankshaft this past spring. The main bearings had too much side/end play. It still ran well but when I took it apart for inspection it was way out of tolerance. That crank has been through a 330 kit , a 300 kit, a Pro-X 310 Kit, several years at or around 270 cc, and the first bunch of years at 250 cc's.   As far as cylinder wear - it simply does not exist, or should I say it is VERY low. Since I always bore a barrel with a torque plate installed - 3/4" thick plate torqued to the proper specs while boring/honing - I have excellent results with the roundness of the bores and with proper attention can get the holes very strait as well. This is a (sort of) a speed secret that automobile drag racers have been using for quite some time. It works well for 2 strokes as well. Especially ones with pistons that are more than 2 mm oversize. When you put a head on a barrel, torque it down and check it with a bore gauge, it is not uncommon to see variations in the bore especially at the top of the bore (of up to .001" directly in line with the hold down bolts - in all 6 places) where it is most important for the rings to do what they do - seal the pressure. Curing this makes cylinders not only last longer but its associated parts - pistons and especially the rings, not to mention the bore itself.   At one time I thought it was wise to coat parts with moly assembly lube, or to oil the parts real well during installation to prevent any gauling during the first few minutes after startup. I learned that lightly oiling the parts with WD-40 or a VERY light coat of motor oil is PLENTY.   As far as special fuels are concerned, I've stayed away from nitro and alcohol. Perhaps if I had a single purpose hill-shooter I would do it. Nitrous was fun, but I like running gas alone better. At over $4 a gallon for the 110 octane stuff and my gas mileage being as crummy as it is, I don't think I can afford to bring much more gas with me on those week+ long trips down there. As it is I'll easily burn 35 to 50 gallons in 9 days, and that includes taking a day or two off to visit my favorite places in Mexico. I changed to my other motor for my most recent trip to Glamis. Now I have to redo the crank from the original motor and am thinking about my possibilities and options with it - there are many.   Rick

Date Last Modified: 4/20/99
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