Oil to Gas - First, Make It Last

Nitrous - What's Funny About Laughing Gas

Leakdown - Bubble Trouble

Jetting 101 - Every Race Is Won

Power Players - 250R's Can Be Slayers

Oval Boring - The Hole's Not The Same

Boring - The Hole Story

Blaster Limit - T.O.R.S. - Available On Yours

Pipe to Port - Altered "Tinking"

Dial A Jet - New Tech = New Attempt

Porting 101 - Start The Fun

Porting 102 - To Choose To Do

Porting 103 - Listen To Everything

Porting 104 - Time The Roar

Porting 105 - To Grow Flow

It's Your Turn - To Screw

Master The Blaster - 2 Wheels Is The Deal

Chain - Power Loss So Plain

Shocks Pass Gas - Nitrogen Is So Cool

Doing Launch - Pressure Testing

Drag Anyone? - What To Displace

Spark - Gap That Matters

Polishing Things - Shiny Parts Look So Fast

TRX Cranks - Canned Cranks Strapped Tanks

EGT - Start To Believe

Flywheel - Less Weight = Less Wait

Bore & Stroke - How Much To Smoke

CV - Constant Controversy

Blaster Disaster - Base Blow Out

To Pipe - To Know Is To Start

LT's If You Please - Rich Sound Moves Ground

New Looks - Metal Stress Is Weakness

Strength In Length - Power Makers Shift Rearward

Raunchy Banshee - Porting Not Sporting

AMP Link - Friction Stinks

Boost Juice - No Boost Makes Big Roost

RAD Valve - Equal Air Seems Fair

Intake Size - Larger Isn't Always Wise

Crank Threads - Right (way) To Tighten

Moving Matter - No Vibration Exemption

Power Pistons - Trimming Domes Makes HP Shown

Blaster Roots - Water Cooling, No Fooling

Raider Sport Ports - Let The Power Out

GP760 Value Added - Very Revvy

Water Testing - Flat Water = Fast Facts

Weight - No Free Freight

It's No Flow Show - Testing Resting?

Sand Tires - Slippery Traction; Lose Patience, Action

Dark Spark - Stubborn Blubber Marks Start

Missing Thunder - Friction Losses; No Wonder

YZ Activity - Wanted: More Upper Energy

Engine Swaps - Replacement Displacement

YFSYZ - Not For Everybody

Thinking/Planning - Choosing Wisely Not Uncanny

Algodones To Glamis Via TRX - A Fast Ride While Riding High Tide

Tree Huggers & MTBE - How Many Degrees Does It Take To Ruin Everything - Update 9/20/2004 - Response added

Faster Blaster - The Long Lean Run From The Border

LT Marries RZ - The RZ & Not Enough Money

Pismo River - The House Of Pain

Tools Rules - Keep The Clicker From Getting Sicker

500 cc GP - Road Racers Relieved

Baby Baby - Eyewear Filter Elements

Lap It - Make That Flat

Long Rod - How Much To Dwell

Hot Dodge - Melted Me

No Air - The Proper Use Of A Chair

Changing Parts - No Wasting Smarts

Balance Shafts - Loose Gears Hurt Ears

 

 

The Thread Spread - Revisited

_______________________________________


-Changing Parts-

Save $20 on purchases of $100+!!!

No Wasting Smarts

Maintenance is a funny thing. If it's not done it doesn't cost any money - but it does have a price. When related to two stroke engines the price could be performance or fuel mileage or reliability. It could be many things - including dependability.

 

Pistons and their associated parts should be replaced at regular timed intervals. I often use 25 to 30 hours of running time for typical high output engines. Race only engines mean more stress and shorter replacement intervals. For that kind of duty cycle 15 to 20 hours is not uncommon. Recreational riders do well with 45 or 50 hours - but many, many riders go much longer than that. Though they may be thinking they're getting away with something, that's simply not true. The longer the parts stay in the engine the more wear they introduce to the parts they interact with. For instance, keeping a piston in an engine too long wears out the bore and crank. It is probably better to change out a piston kit than have to waste a bore size because the time interval was missed. The crank bearings will last much longer if they're not subject to flying debris such as small pieces of aluminum from the piston, hard ring material (or cylinder liner) or bearing cages which could start to come apart.


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If a schedule is followed and parts are changed out it would be very rare to have a breakdown due to the material achieving a service life beyond what it can tolerate. The timed parts changing events are scheduled ahead of the expected duty cycle to prevent a disaster. If the schedule is not adhered to sooner or later something will come apart, wear out and/or ruin other parts. Someone once said "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Some people may have misinterpreted that as wisdom. The statement should be something like "Replace parts before they reach the end of their expected duty cycle. Establish the duty cycle from experience and other peoples mistakes." I'm writing this after inspecting a top end from my own TRX250R. The cast Pro-X piston still has the original machine marks and it's outer diameter is still well within tolerance. It's crown shows a good burn pattern and good color. The inside of its crown is colored medium brown - it did not over heat. The rings were sealing well as evidenced by their clean shiny bottom side and their face still has plenty of plated material. The ring end gap is well within specification. The cylinder bore is still very round and the piston to bore clearance is .003" inches - only .0006" more than what it was when it was assembled. There is very little wear on any of the parts - that is, the kind of wear you can physically measure. The engine these parts were in was run during a combination of hill racing and pleasure riding for a period totaling 30 hours riding time. The cost of replacing the piston, rings, clips, wrist pin, bearing, the cost of a base gasket and a hone is about $80-$90 (give or take). A few dollars an hour. The parts are changed out (replaced) in 40 minutes using hand tools. Running in the new replacement parts will be quick and painless.

 

If the bore was warn out it would cost about $50 more and I'd have to give more attention to running in the new surfaces. It also takes more time to perform and wastes a bore size. If the top end wasn't checked until the piston broke it could take the crank with it (about $300 new or $150 rebuilt). It could also take out the cylinder itself (about $400 plus the cost of porting - $$$) and maybe damage the head (more $$$). Though the parts that come out often "look" fine - it is difficult to establish how much longer they could have lasted at a steady state of continued operation. It's not worth taking unnecessary risks with internal engine parts - they were designed to be replaced often. They're relatively cheap and easy to exchange so there's no reason not to replace them. People who change parts out on a regular schedule spend less money on parts in the long run than people who wait until replacement is indicated by other means.

 

Rick

 


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