Oil to Gas - First, Make It Last

Nitrous - What's Funny About Laughing Gas

Leakdown - Bubble Trouble

Jetting 101 - Every Race Is Won

Power Players - 250R's Can Be Slayers

Oval Boring - The Hole's Not The Same

Boring - The Hole Story

Blaster Limit - T.O.R.S. - Available On Yours

Pipe to Port - Altered "Tinking"

Dial A Jet - New Tech = New Attempt

Porting 101 - Start The Fun

Porting 102 - To Choose To Do

Porting 103 - Listen To Everything

Porting 104 - Time The Roar

Porting 105 - To Grow Flow

It's Your Turn - To Screw

Master The Blaster - 2 Wheels Is The Deal

Chain - Power Loss So Plain

Shocks Pass Gas - Nitrogen Is So Cool

Doing Launch - Pressure Testing

Drag Anyone? - What To Displace

Spark - Gap That Matters

Polishing Things - Shiny Parts Look So Fast

TRX Cranks - Canned Cranks Strapped Tanks

EGT - Start To Believe

Flywheel - Less Weight = Less Wait

Bore & Stroke - How Much To Smoke

CV - Constant Controversy

Blaster Disaster - Base Blow Out

To Pipe - To Know Is To Start

LT's If You Please - Rich Sound Moves Ground

New Looks - Metal Stress Is Weakness

Strength In Length - Power Makers Shift Rearward

Raunchy Banshee - Porting Not Sporting

AMP Link - Friction Stinks

Boost Juice - No Boost Makes Big Roost

RAD Valve - Equal Air Seems Fair

Intake Size - Larger Isn't Always Wise

Crank Threads - Right (way) To Tighten

Moving Matter - No Vibration Exemption

Power Pistons - Trimming Domes Makes HP Shown

Blaster Roots - Water Cooling, No Fooling

Raider Sport Ports - Let The Power Out

GP760 Value Added - Very Revvy

Water Testing - Flat Water = Fast Facts

Weight - No Free Freight

It's No Flow Show - Testing Resting?

Sand Tires - Slippery Traction; Lose Patience, Action

Dark Spark - Stubborn Blubber Marks Start

Missing Thunder - Friction Losses; No Wonder

YZ Activity - Wanted: More Upper Energy

Engine Swaps - Replacement Displacement

YFSYZ - Not For Everybody

Thinking/Planning - Choosing Wisely Not Uncanny

Algodones To Glamis Via TRX - A Fast Ride While Riding High Tide

Tree Huggers & MTBE - How Many Degrees Does It Take To Ruin Everything - Update 9/20/2004 - Response added

Faster Blaster - The Long Lean Run From The Border

LT Marries RZ - The RZ & Not Enough Money

Pismo River - The House Of Pain

Tools Rules - Keep The Clicker From Getting Sicker

500 cc GP - Road Racers Relieved

Baby Baby - Eyewear Filter Elements

Lap It - Make That Flat

Long Rod - How Much To Dwell

Hot Dodge - Melted Me

No Air - The Proper Use Of A Chair

Changing Parts - No Wasting Smarts

Balance Shafts - Loose Gears Hurt Ears

 

 

The Thread Spread - Revisited

_______________________________________


-Crank Threads-

Save $20 on purchases of $100+!!!

Right (way) To Tighten

The Question - On the right hand side of the TRX crankshaft ( clutch side), is the thread a right hand or left hand thread?

 

The Response - The thread is a right hander - normal. Keep in mind the clutch drive gear has locating marks on it as does the balancer shaft and its drive gear. Additionally, the balancer shaft is marked "OUT" on it outer face as does the washer which is installed just under the clutch drive gear bolt. Torque that primary drive bolt to 29 - 36 ft-lb when you're done.
 

Take care when removing that gear - you don't want to put anything hard in between the gears to prevent them from turning while you loosen or tighten up the bolt (like a screwdriver). There is a special tool dealers sell that is used just for this purpose - it holds the gears still while you work on them - its worth buying. Many people use a soft piece of metal; brass, aluminum to place between the gear teeth to prevent them from moving. That will most likely work, but it can put such a stress on the bearings there is the possibility of damage while doing it. I have heard of people using everything from wood to cloth to plastics to prevent the gears from turning. All of these would be better than screwing something in the spark plug hole or putting something in the cylinder (let the piston squish a rag - ugh!) to prevent the motor from turning over. I've also had good results using air tools to remove bolts/nuts like that. With just a little hand pressure you can prevent the part from moving while easily removing it with the air.
 
Rick

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Waay back many years ago, I used a soft copper penny (yes they are all copper) between the gears thinking, as I was told by the dealer, that this was totally safe. I learned an invaluable lesson as the clutch basket gear ended up cracking and $250 later I had a new one. I would NEVER use anything in such a way that the bearings are under stress. If you do not have air, you can use a hammer to beat on the butt end of your ratchet. Craftsman will warranty dented ratchets. Leave the plug in as the compression will help - and you're not putting any more stress on the bearings and crank any more than a running motor does.
 
Trax310

 


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