Oil to Gas - First, Make It Last

Nitrous - What's Funny About Laughing Gas

Leakdown - Bubble Trouble

Jetting 101 - Every Race Is Won

Power Players - 250R's Can Be Slayers

Oval Boring - The Hole's Not The Same

Boring - The Hole Story

Blaster Limit - T.O.R.S. - Available On Yours

Pipe to Port - Altered "Tinking"

Dial A Jet - New Tech = New Attempt

Porting 101 - Start The Fun

Porting 102 - To Choose To Do

Porting 103 - Listen To Everything

Porting 104 - Time The Roar

Porting 105 - To Grow Flow

It's Your Turn - To Screw

Master The Blaster - 2 Wheels Is The Deal

Chain - Power Loss So Plain

Shocks Pass Gas - Nitrogen Is So Cool

Doing Launch - Pressure Testing

Drag Anyone? - What To Displace

Spark - Gap That Matters

Polishing Things - Shiny Parts Look So Fast

TRX Cranks - Canned Cranks Strapped Tanks

EGT - Start To Believe

Flywheel - Less Weight = Less Wait

Bore & Stroke - How Much To Smoke

CV - Constant Controversy

Blaster Disaster - Base Blow Out

To Pipe - To Know Is To Start

LT's If You Please - Rich Sound Moves Ground

New Looks - Metal Stress Is Weakness

Strength In Length - Power Makers Shift Rearward

Raunchy Banshee - Porting Not Sporting

AMP Link - Friction Stinks

Boost Juice - No Boost Makes Big Roost

RAD Valve - Equal Air Seems Fair

Intake Size - Larger Isn't Always Wise

Crank Threads - Right (way) To Tighten

Moving Matter - No Vibration Exemption

Power Pistons - Trimming Domes Makes HP Shown

Blaster Roots - Water Cooling, No Fooling

Raider Sport Ports - Let The Power Out

GP760 Value Added - Very Revvy

Water Testing - Flat Water = Fast Facts

Weight - No Free Freight

It's No Flow Show - Testing Resting?

Sand Tires - Slippery Traction; Lose Patience, Action

Dark Spark - Stubborn Blubber Marks Start

Missing Thunder - Friction Losses; No Wonder

YZ Activity - Wanted: More Upper Energy

Engine Swaps - Replacement Displacement

YFSYZ - Not For Everybody

Thinking/Planning - Choosing Wisely Not Uncanny

Algodones To Glamis Via TRX - A Fast Ride While Riding High Tide

Tree Huggers & MTBE - How Many Degrees Does It Take To Ruin Everything - Update 9/20/2004 - Response added

Faster Blaster - The Long Lean Run From The Border

LT Marries RZ - The RZ & Not Enough Money

Pismo River - The House Of Pain

Tools Rules - Keep The Clicker From Getting Sicker

500 cc GP - Road Racers Relieved

Baby Baby - Eyewear Filter Elements

Lap It - Make That Flat

Long Rod - How Much To Dwell

Hot Dodge - Melted Me

No Air - The Proper Use Of A Chair

Changing Parts - No Wasting Smarts

Balance Shafts - Loose Gears Hurt Ears

 

 

The Thread Spread - Revisited

_______________________________________


-Shocks Pass Gas-


Nitrogen Is So Cool

The question - I have an 88 LT250R, the stock rear gas shock seems real "soft". I am about the tighten up the spring by turning the big nut under the spring. What about the pressure in the gas bottle? The book doesn't mention anything about it. How much pressure should be in it? What kind of gas is in it? Is it just pressurized air?

 

The response - You can attempt to set the preload to match your weight and riding style but read on.... Typically the gas charge is around 350 psi, also typical is that it is nitrogen. Nitrogen is "more" inert than regular air, nitrogen won't hold as much moisture, nor is it as affected by temperature changes. That's why it's exclusively used in aircraft components(landing gear struts, accumulators, so on...)

 

When shocks start to get soft, it isn't always the charge in the res., but it is one cause. Has the shock ever been rebuilt?? The oil in

the shock begins to deteriorate with heat, from friction of internal parts, and age. It's one of those things that you really never notice how bad it is until you get it serviced and you say "WOW, did it ever ride rough before!!" I would consider sending the shock in to many of the reputable shock repair shops, Progressive, Denton Racing, Devol Racing, Shoc Connection, to name a few to have the shock rebuilt. It's worth the time and money. Could run you anywhere from $100 for a simple service to a total rebuild, revalve, long travel mod and spring for around $350. Good luck.

 

Backcountry

 

I would add that it's fairly easy to check the compression force in the shock as well (the result of the nitrogen pressure in the shock). Remove the shock from the bike. Remove the spring. The damper will be extended due to the pressure of the nitrogen in the shock (if there's any left). Get a bathroom scale. With the shock in your hands press it against the scale and measure how much force it takes to start the damper to compress. For a 86 TRX stock shock, that number is 51 to 85 lb. of pressure.


Your Ad Here

 

That's a simple way to do it, and there are better ways especially if you have a hydraulic - press. I usually do that before I take a shock apart so I can get an idea of what might be wrong before I start. Additionally I think that Outer Wears (the cloth shock covers) are a good idea because they prevent dings and dents to the shafts. If you have $1500 (like many of us do) into shocks on your quad - it's worth it. They weight almost nothing.

 

Rick

 


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