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Pulling Studs

A and B Cylinders

Rod Length and Rod Angle

Compression Ratio

Too Much Compression

Ignitions

Intake System

Over Rev

Crunching Numbers

Mossbarger Reed Cage

Break In

Sealant For Engine Cases

Spacer Plates

Pump Gas

Case Volume

Texturing

Reed Valve Conversion

Mikuni vs. Keihin

Piston Thickness & Squish

Airflow

Crankcase Bleeding

Hemi Head Design

Wave Tuning

Rod Bearings

Reed Petals

More Crankcase Bleeding

Banshee Reed Spacers

EGT Probe Placement

Combustion Chamber Shape vs. Ignition Advance

Ignition; Advance or Retard

More-Power Pistons

Blasting

Blaster Data

Stroking

Reverse Engineering

More More-Power Pistons

Porting Epoxy

Squish Angle

Squish Thickness

Just One Ring on Two Ring Piston

What to Call The Ports

Using a Piston Stop

Gasket Thickness & Squish Velocity

Boost Port

Blowdown

Port Texture

Texture & Punctuation?

Air, Liquids & Solids

Snowmobile Porting

Building Pipes

Porting Tools

Catch Tank

Honda Strokers

Honda TRX250R Barrels

Wiseco Pistons

Keihin Needles

TRX250R Engine Cases

Copper Gaskets

Plated Bores

Engine Displacement

Balance Shaft Clatter

Which Pipe

Engine Work

ATC250R and TRX250R Heads

CR250R Ignition on the TRX250R

Reed Cages

Divider Between E-Port and T-Port

TRX250R Transmission Assembly

Reeds

O-Rings

How To Make Stainless O-Rings

Big Bore Considerations

Safety Wire Tips

Spacer Plate and Gasket Material

More Stroker Motors

Calculating Port Duration

Oil and Grease on Gaskets

Engine Cooling

Cutting Pistons

Adding Stroke

Honda Crankshafts

More Ignition Timing

Two Stroke Thinking

Amsoil

Setting Up A Stroker

Flywheel Modification For Ignition Advance

Common Stroker Errors

Determining Fuel Octane

Truing The Top Cylinder Deck

Stroker Changes

Piped Pimple Porting

Head Machining

PWC Rev Limit

General State of Tune

Cutting Ports and Tunnels

Burette's

Parallel Squish & SAR

Exhaust Port Stuffer

Exhaust Ports

Using Correct 2 Stroke Terminology

Scooter Engines

Porting NiCaSil

Compression Testing

Rod Length

More Squish Info

Power Pistons Revisited

106 Pages of Updates





Intake System

The so called "MacDizzy Intake System" (please see - http://www.macdizzy.com/parts.htm ) is a set up I devised several years ago to accomplish a few separate things. I wanted to lighten the bike a bit - it allowed me to remove the air box. I wanted to be able to let it breathe as well as possible - though this has never been tested back to back out in the field when riding, it certainly performs at least as well as the bike with the lid and inlet tube removed. And the dyno likes it this way. In addition it allowed me to hear the inlet better, which allows me to tune into my engine much better on that side. This set up with the Outerwear helps repel water as well - I almost forgot about that benefit (thanks Shawn). The material used to make the wraps is the material used in bulk fuel filters. It filters out water - or so it claims.

The reason the K&N's breathe so well is their lack of obstruction - hence the daylight you see when looking through them. I don't think anyone ever said they were the best filtration available. Many racers note that they work very well when extremely dirty, and this makes them a wonderful choice for that purpose. Dirt that would have a foam filter choking is merely toying with the K&N's ability to pass air. I'm like everyone else - it messes with my mind to see daylight through an air filter, but there's more to the story (please know that this is not intended to provoke a contest of any sort).





This might be a good time to point out some small differences in riding styles - or better still remind some readers of the kind of riding my TRX encounters. The Algodones to Glamis article on the Thread Spread section of my site is no joke (please see - http://www.macdizzy.com/mexico.htm ), in fact that ride is common as are about a hundred other rides we take out there and other places as well. My TRX is set up for sand riding/racing. My typical 270 cc set up is 113 to 118 octane fuel with a compression ratio well into the upper stratosphere. The engine is detailed more specifically on my Glamis Sand Dunes page. The point here is that it is an extreme service duty engine. Though I have two engines for my TRX, only one of them has seen very many miles. The original engine has about 1000 miles on it. The engine that has all the miles and has been everywhere and back has always been filtered with a K&N - you may remember that the filter wraps have only been around for a few years so you can probably guess that it's been through thousands of miles without the extra protection. This engine has been a 250, a 270, a 295, a 310 and a 330. It was just last year that I rebuilt its crankshaft for the first time. I took the liberty of doing so when the main bearings developed too much side clearance. At that time I changed the rod. Granted, I perform maintenance to this engine much more frequently than most people but if it this statement doesn't account for the ability of that filter to do a good job of keeping dirt out of an engine then it must be the superior materials and craftsmanship Honda put into the crank to begin with. If not that then the two stroke oil I use. If there has to be a reason these crankshafts last so long please don't say that it's related to the easy riding style. There are few riders on this planet who have dished out more abuse to a TRX than I have since I bought mine new off the dealers showroom floor in April of 1986.

When it comes to breathing I'll take a K&N any day. Those concerned about maximum longevity can buy another filter if they choose. I've seen engines filtered with all types of elements and destroyed from a myriad of reasons and an engine sucking in dirt is at the top of the list (though it's usually related to neglect, abuse or both). The thing is, there is no guarantee that any filter will keep an engine perfectly dirt free. If you need a guarantee, buy a toaster.





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