Yummie Yami

 

Upgrade The YFS; To Be The Best

Our Blaster is not the run of the mill Blaster - any more. This 1990 YFS200 is now sporting an engine which might make this machine the perfect pick for our needs - a simple lightweight machine that is reliable, has enough power, is easy to start, gets good gas mileage and most importantly is fun to drive. I fitted this Blaster with Yamaha's DT200 engine. It's essentially the Blaster engine though it's liquid cooled and sports the YPVS power valve system. That makes it a giant step up from the standard Blaster but not quite the leap to a TRX250R. Yamaha rates the DT200 engine at 31 hp. That, compared to the 17 hp the stock YFS200 engine puts out means it's very cool indeed.

The oil injected DT200 dirt bike and YFS200 Blaster engines share many parts with one another. The engine cases are very close to identical - there's one difference noted below. The crankshaft, piston and associated parts are the same. The drive gear, clutch driven ratio and transmission ratio's are different between the two machines. The more powerful, lighter DT motorcycle features a higher drive ratio to the clutch and taller gear ratio's in the transmission as well. This makes it interesting because depending on the intended purpose of the machine, the driven ratio and/or transmission ratio's can be swapped to help dial it in. The top end is completely different because of the DT's liquid cooling but the top will bolt on to the Blaster cases without modification. Even though the Blaster engine is air cooled it still shows its roots as evidenced by the rubber plugs covering the coolant lines that aren't needed on its generic water pump case. The DT is equipped with a mechanical tachometer so its boss shows on the upper right case too. Either version comes oil injected but the DT version is variable. The electrical system is also different between the two models. The DT has a higher output stator that's used to power its extra accessories and lights and is welcome on the Blaster.
 
It's an easy and natural swap to the Blaster because the motor mounts are in the same physical location and bolt up with one modification. The upper rear engine mount, a hole through the engine case, needs to be enlarged to allow the Blaster's swing arm pivot bolt to pass through it. That hole has a fairly hard washer that fits into a recess on both sides of the engine. After measuring the hole through the cases, the I.D., O.D. and thickness of the washer I determined the best way to make the parts fit was to use the washers that come with the DT200 engine and modify them. I bored the hole in the cases out using a 5/8" drill. I machined the washers to the same size by chucking them in my lathe. I used a boring bar to open up the hole. When done I tapped the washers in the hole and inserted the swing arm bolt in it to check the fit. It felt the same as the Blaster, so I proceeded with the swap. The engine fit in the frame as intended. All its bolts fit fine and assembled without worry. The drive sprocket lined up perfectly, as did the exhaust.
 
The electrical system of the DT200 has quite a few not-needed-on-an-atv accessories that I quickly discarded. The side stand warning switch, relay and light were removed from the wire harness as were the pigtails for the turn signals and the flasher hardware. The horn and oil level switch were also removed. The wiring harness was whittled down to the basic components - the stator and flywheel, CDI, coil, regulator/rectifier, power valve control box and servo motor. These components were what was needed to run the engine. I was keeping the full function of the power valve so a small 12 volt battery would be added to the finished machine. I found the battery fit well within the tool pouch cavity built into the rear plastic if I made a small cut connecting the two compartments. The power valve servo motor also had to be mounted. Its two relatively short cables which are used to open and close the power valve drum need a fairly straight path to the right, top side of the upper cylinder in order to function properly. I fabricated two more small stays and welded them to one of the radiator brackets. Though the position I ended up with was not perfect it would do until I locate a couple of longer cables to actuate the power valve. Two new power valve cables about three inches longer each will allow me to locate the servo motor in a better location protecting it from water, dirt and debris. I spliced the wiring harness to be able to connect the Blaster's handlebar kill switch as well as the headlight switch. Its key switch will be wired to turn on and off the battery but is not right now.
 
Having a liquid cooled engine in the Blaster frame meant adding a radiator as well. To cool the motor the DT200 motorcycle was equipped with a single twin row aluminum radiator measuring 5" x 10". I though long and hard about the engine's new life in an ATV frame before I settled on using two twin row aluminum radiators measuring 5" x 9" each. These 1986 ATC250R radiators seemed like the perfect parts to use because they are used as original equipment on this bike and cool it well. Fitting the radiators took some time because I had to rig a way to hold them in place as I moved the suspension through its movement and checked for interference. I used small aluminum pieces to mock the parts up with. When the final position was determined I fabricated the brackets out of mild steel and welded them to the frame. They would hold the radiators in place using three of the four rubber isolated mounts the ATC used.
 
The Blaster OEM exhaust system works well but is heavy so I replaced it with the FMF Fatty pipe the machine had on it when I bought it. I capped it with an FMF "Q" series spark arrestor / muffler. This "quiet" series muffler would hopefully not only not intimidate its young riders it wouldn't intimidate me when these same riders are driving around and around the campsite when us old folks are too tired to yell at them to keep the noise down any more.
 
That's about it.
 
Just in case there was a serious mismatch in the power characteristics of the new motor and its new heavier-than-it-was-used-to home I brought with me a stock Blaster crankshaft drive gear and its matching clutch assembly. Along with those parts I also had a complete Blaster transmission assembly. If the drive ratio to the transmission seemed too tall I could change just the crankshaft drive and clutch driven gear to the stock Blaster components for a noteworthy change. If the transmission ratio's were too far off I could change the transmission to the Blaster OEM ratio's. By changing none, one or both of these assemblies I had four different combinations that would be sure to get me closer to where I needed to be. In addition to that the final drive ratio could also be changed to further dial it in.
 
Other than me taking a couple of quick trips around the block on it my kids were the ones running this machine in on its maiden voyage. The "piped-only" engine with its built in extra power proved to be an almost ideal match for the DT's OEM gearing combination. Aside from losing the kick starter in the sand on its second tankful of gas the new engine / frame combination worked flawlessly. Though we kiddingly blamed my daughter for losing the part I knew it was my fault for not tightening it properly because I was on the fence as to whether I would use the Blaster's kick start lever or the one from the DT. As it turned out I'm using a Blaster part due to the amount of money I now have into the part ($90; at the dunes price).
 
I took the machine for a long ride yesterday morning to see if I could expose flaws that hadn't showed up yet. For this outing at the Pismo dunes I picked four different rides - the fence, grudge racing, Sand Highway and sustained putting on the beach. The fence ride is a fairly fast rolling-hill ride that takes as much enthusiasm as it does energy in order to attack it's bumpy, twisty, whooped out sections that bend from one end of the popular sand attraction to the other. The fence bobs and weaves through the sand creating many rutted-out hard right and left hand turns as well as some short steep mega-moguls and little sand hills. The inclined drag racing area gives runs that appear to be about 600 ft. to 700 ft.. It's groomed to be pretty smooth thanks to a very enthusiastic person with great ambition that keeps the action that much safer. Sand Highway is a wide open throttle upper gears only assault upon the machine's jetting and gearing, suspension, the land and the body. Super slow driving along the California coast line leaves time to take in the sights of the many campers also enjoying this holiday weekend.
 
The almost three hour tour shed new light upon the situation. This combination is reliable, fast, powerful and fun. For the first time aboard a Blaster the fence ride was interesting and fun. Typically the Blaster would run out of power just when ground speeds were becoming entertaining. In the past this meant only cruising this area of the dunes because a real attack on the coarse aboard that machine was simply not possible. The power valve YFSDT pulled from very low in the rev range and revved to serious sweet sounds on top. At a power level the stock Blaster knows it doesn't have, the new combination had me thinking this must be what a TRX200R would be like if there was one. Its top end pull, though not worthy of true 250 class analogies certainly out classed its YFS roots. Racing the incline turned few heads from the onlookers on the sidelines because it looks so much like a stock Blaster that almost no one noticed anything different. There are a few riders out there that probably thought they holed something or were about to because they couldn't pull the "fake-out" Blaster while racing. I won several races against a probably-only-piped 1985 ATC250R with a teen ager driving. These races had him pulling me out of the hole by a bike to two, then had me pulling him through third and fourth gears while revving out and ending in fifth a full bike length ahead. Though these were very close over all the ATC could not pull the YFSDT through the middle or on top. I also won against a moderately modified TRX250R with a heavy-ish rider driving. I would take this machine by half a machine by mid-track then open up to a full bike length by track end. The Honda 300 cc & 400 cc four strokes were no real match for this combination though some of the noisier ones did have "it" paying attention. The yellow Suzuki four strokes were everywhere and were loud enough to be annoying. The beating beasts jump out of the hole against the YFSDT and establish a two to three bike length lead which they held the entire distance. The YFSDT couldn't reel them in and they couldn't pull it either. I can remember feeling that I could easily launch harder to lessen their advantage but I really just wanted to establish a baseline so I didn't try any harder. The ride along Sand Highway was the fastest and quickest I've ever ridden aboard a Blaster. The machine never got away from me but did remind me a couple of times it's a short machine. The almost-too-much power-for-the-chassis feeling is its new personality, and I like it. I pulled long drawn out high speed fourth and fifth gear wheelies under full throttle conditions when reaching for the edge of the racy combination. It's power, weight and balance matched well to the fast slow-rolling-dune terrain. I then idled through the restless campers showing off their latest contraptions to one another. The YFSDT didn't skip a beat when it was asked to perform down low for an hour of less than jogging pace shiftless putt-skooting.
 
I ran the gas tank real low a couple of times as did another member of our crew. To be closer to ideal a larger fuel capacity is in order. Adding things like wider a-arms or a longer swing arm could make the machine more like a TRX but in keeping with the Blaster tradition those items are out for this project unless I decide to go for a weight saving thing. My rear end hurt a lot after the outing so a better seat would be good. No one else complained about the staunch saddle so maybe it's just my years showing. I can remember thinking about better shocks while riding fast on the whooped out fence ride too. These pieces, though pricey could find a home here but I'll wait until others complain before I ante up the dough. Aesthetically, a few things need to be cleaned up. The radiator brackets need a little work - they don't look finished enough. I'll spend some time on them so they'll blend in smoothly. I need some shrouds for the radiators too. I don't know if these are parts I can rob from the same bike the radiators came from but I should probably see if they're a possibility before I rule them out. I need a rubber strap for the battery to prevent it from moving around, but it's not a big deal. I should probably swap out the six paddle Haulers for an eight paddle pair but again it's not a big deal unless drag racing is the order of the day. The liquid cooled power valve engine is a little heavier than it's air cooled sibling and the battery and other additional components add to the heft. I'm guessing but I'd say the new machine is 11 lb. to 14 lb. heavier than the old one. Replacing the stock exhaust with the Fatty pipe saved a few pounds as did swapping the OEM tires and wheels for the Douglas .125's with the six paddle haulers.
 
Some time ago I had Ricky Stator rewind the original Blaster engine stator for higher output lighting to be able to light up the dual PIAA 35 watt driving lamps but the DT comes standard with a lot more juice to the lighting so additional work there was not done at this time. The dual lights get to full bright when revving the throttle just off idle so I'm guessing I could add more in the lighting department when necessary. Thumbing through the shop manual tells no clear output number for the stator.
 
 
The primary, transmission and final drive ratio's:
 

YFS200

DT200

Primary Reduction

71/22 (3.227)

52/17 (3.058)

1st

34/11 (3.091)

35/11 (3.181)

2nd

31/14 (2.214)

30/16 (1.875)

3rd

25/15 (1.667)

24/17 (1.411)

4th

20/16 (1.250)

24/21 (1.142)

5th

19/18 (1.056)

22/23 (0.956)

6th

19/21 (0.905)

18/22 (0.818)

Final Drive Ratio

40/13 (3.077)

41/13 (3.153)




Vehicle Weight

319 lb.

228 lb.




Ignition Timing

16 BTDC @ 3000

8 BTDC @ 1350



30 BTDC @ 4000




Bulb Wattage (12v)



Headlight

45w/45w x 1

45w/40w x 1

Tail/Brake Light

3.4w x 1

8w/27w x 1

Oil Level Indicator

3.4w x 1

3.4w x 1

Neutral Indicator


3.4w x 1

High Beam Indicator


3.4w x 1

Turn Indicator


3.4w x 1

Turn Signal Light


27w x 4

Meter Light


3.4w x 2

 
 
Though I have a Digatron unit to install on this machine I really didn't have time to set it up and dial it in so I performed some plug chops to establish jetting. It was incredibly easy to dial in. I started with the jetting the Blaster had been running - it was very close. I ended up setting the air screw 1 1/4 turns out, a 25 pilot, clip set at the second position and a 240 main. The air box lid was on and there are no holes drilled in it. This jetting was a little rich on top but safe enough to let my kids ride it without worry.
 
I can now say without reservation that this is the Blaster Yamaha should build. With few lightweight small displacement machines available the YFSDT fits into a well defined niche and would undoubtedly sell well, but with two stroke things the way they are we'll likely never see it.
 
* * * * * (Five Stars)
 
-Rick

The ATC250R radiators fit well within the Blaster frame constraints.

It fits like it should. No surprises here.

Yes, that's water on the engine. Five minutes ago it looked like it had been buried in a hole on the beach. The servo motor is barely visible - it's behind the right fender with the small cables attached.

The hood hides the DT components (regulator/rectifier upper left, power valve control box upper right).

Yamaha put a battery box in the plastic of this model - very interesting indeed.


Bare metal rusts quickly from the thick salty Pismo air. The radiators each have similar mounting hardware - three mounting tabs are used. A little paint on the brackets will clean up their looks. The radiator could stand a coat of fresh black paint as well.

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Date Last Modified: 5/27/03
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